The Baroque Gardens at Schwetzingen

 

A fountain’s white plumage noisily lifting water

distracts me while I wait in line. Spray silvers

a statue stroking a lyre astride a dolphin

in its broad basin. Postcards (orange-yellow

parterres, temples like marble boutiques, shaded

lanes, bedsheet-taut lawns, pink sandstone facades,

lake views, palms in huge pots) frame like bouquets

the grilled cashier who hands change and my ticket.

A blue guard gestures. Passing the gate, I enter

 

paradise as Fragonard would have painted it,

Eden no serpent spoils, a toppled rainbow 

permitting each entrant (a brown-capped man unfolding

his map, two women crocheting on a bench,

a child tossing bread to swans, a kissing couple

twined, it seems, in the stitchery of a trellis

dripping with ivy) unmolested passage

into this preferred world of sinless apples

ripe to the touch, tasted with delight. Delight…

 

Where else is delight so conveniently distilled?

So served-like-tea?  Look: a sly-grinning Pan

winks through a hedge’s peep-hole, his flute piping

ditties of no tone. Look: a buxom Flora

offers a peony in a bounteous gesture

plain to the dullest clod.  (Blooms blaze around her

—could they refuse?)  Look: felled by hounds, serene stags

jet water into a pool. Warming, I splash

cool handfuls over my parched face and neck:

 

the sky’s heat is losing balance. Skimming nature’s dross,

landscapers and architects lacked skill to tame

its blue—an impending, insane kaleidoscope

of prismatic weathers nothing at all can be made of.

Hence, the Bath House’s foyer elegantly 

replaces a glass skylight with this oil painting:

Aurora, smilingly cushioned on buttery clouds

as pink-cheeked cherub mobs gleefully roll

indignant Night head-over-heels down to darkness.

 

More tractable than sky, the countryside, too,

sprawled rawly, a drawingboard a beneficent deity

bequeathed his precocious progeny. Hence, the grounds

present these dead-straight tulip ranks, a red

regime as wax-precise as periwigged courtiers

refusing to sweat, their poker-iron poses

a game, it appears, where nods are forfeits.  Change,

bumptious elsewhere, lives here too, but it creeps

stealthy as aging: Athena’s outstretched arm

 

handless, tattooed with graffiti’s casual libels;

the Mosque’s (as Turkish laborers pray) gum wrappers,

smoke butts. I almost hear serpiginous ivy

muttering, “Let the tiniest crack appear,

the custodian drowse a year—my Bacchic clusters

will gag this statuary as bread-starved Parisian

throngs throttled the innocence of the young queen

who liked this view, my probing tendrils, meshed roots

fang their claim, my rife vines hoist their green flag.”

 

Confused minnows, sunny patches on the grass scurry,

pause, submerge, reemerge. Decay’s been noticed:

the Waterspout’s dull birds sport new coppery feathers;

the Orangery’s faded festoons of stucco garlands

glitter with fresh red paint; a denimed painter,

brush in hand, hunches in scaffolding like a Giotto,

healing with each meticulous dab a jigsaw

puzzle of neglect.  Sun-basking in wicker pots,

oleander and frilled palmetto classicize

 

intentionally the brooding Teutonic backdrop

of conifers thickening along the low brick wall.

Likewise, across a bridge, the English Garden’s

pastoral greenery trumpets Knowledge’s triumph:

on the Science Temple’s staircase, a tame sphinx

(its riddle solved?) curls like an amiable tabby.

Further down a canal’s perspective-end,

the Theater sleeps, or muses, its pink stones

flushed purple in late sun. Then a door opens.

 

Lamps sparkle. Is a concert done? Tuxedos,

gowns drift outdoors, chat, glancing at dusk’s umbers.

My walk ends here: the spattered statue, playing

enrapt in graying fountain spray, disregards  

the passing crowd. A bell! Startled, a mother

clutches her purse, calls to a splashing child,

Jetzt geht’s nach Haus. The fountain’s plumage totters,

collapses like a parasol. Breeze stirs

the pool’s last, feathery rufflings, then calm gloss

 

mirrors gold-fringed cirrus. Entrants now turned exiles

resume lives briefly laid aside, departing

past the closed ticket window to cars, cafes,

coves of choice or indecision. The blue guard gestures.

Tossing my spent stub in a wastebin, passing

a gate I can’t reenter now, I pause

at a crosswalk, pedestrian. Harsh headlights

stream by. Dim over sundown’s muddy reds,

the moon’s thin crescent ushers dusk to black.

 

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